Overview

About Island peak climbing
Island Peak (Imja Tse), 6189m, is an exciting and challenging climb in the Khumbu Himalaya and, therefore, within reach of the average fit person who wants to have a genuine high-altitude climbing experience on snow and ice. Previous climbing experience will be helpful as our highly experienced Sherpa climbing guides will also provide training and practice of relevant skills such as using jumour, abseiling, and mainly crossing the ladders section on Island Peak. If you have previous knowledge and experience in Rock and ice climbing and have already done high-altitude trekking, it will be very beneficial for your Island Peak Expedition. Our Island Peak Climbing combines the classic trek to the Everest Base Camp and a stunning 6000m peak climb. Island Peak Base Camp is easily accessible from Chhukung village, just off the Everest Base Camp trail. The climb segment starts from the Chhukung Valley and takes only 2 Nights and 3 Days to climb the Imja Tse, Island Peak.

Island peak climbing trip facts;
The island peak is also known as Imja-tse Peak in Khumbu region. The height of Island Peak 6,189 m / 20,305 ft climbing absolutely an amazing place in doing mountaineering with technical knowledge as well as expert climbers who taking to the top of Island Peak for your dream come true. Island Peak is not easy trekking peak in Nepal after the earthquake the situation of structure of route a bit change and getting more difficult for the climbing. Island peak is situated in the heart of Everest region, eastern part of Nepal.
Island Peak Climbing combines several days of trekking in the EBC route and in coming back with well acclimatize to go to climb this peak. MOUNT ISLAND PEAK offer you stunning views of many snowcapped mountains such as world highest Peak Mount Everest, Mount Lhotse, Mount Makalu, Mount Pomari, Mount Nuptse, Mount Cho-Yu and most attractive mountain Ama Dablam during your period of time to Climbing. Island peak was named 1953, as the peak resembles an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. You can feel excitement for climbing, later in 1983, the peak was renamed as Imja-Tse.

Island peak climbing route;
Island peak climbing begins at Lukla and follows the Everest Base Camp Trekking Trail up the Dudh Kosi valley through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche, Gorak Shep, Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar. This trekking journey to Everest Base Camp is already an extraordinary experience; there are beautiful pine and rhododendron forests, monasteries, excellent trekking trails, and magnificent views of Khumbu Himalaya such as Everest, Ama Dablam, Nuptse, and Pumori, to name a few and of course the heart and soul of Khumbu, i.e. Sherpa people, their culture, work and hospitality. By now, we will be much more acclimatized to the cold weather and altitude on Island Peak. Returning to Dingboche, the trail branches off into the Chhukung Valley, where our next adventure begins.
From Chhukung village, the trail follows the moraine of the massive Lhotse Glacier, then the Imja Tso Khola (river) to Island Peak Base Camp at 5100 m. We spend time hiking around base camp for acclimatization and learning the climbing skills required for Island Peak. There are slabs and boulders to clamber over to reach Island Peak High Camp (5500m) where we will spend our second night at tents before we approach our summit push of Island Peak.

Island peak climbing summit day;
After high camp, there are more rocks and scree at first, and then we get to Crampon Point, where we put on our harness, climbing boots and other climbing gear. We need to walk on the Ladders to cross the Crevasses section in a couple of places. After the Crevasses section, walk on the flat glacier section before we get to the foothill of the Ice headwall. A 300-meter headwall of 45-degree snow slopes leads to the exposed summit ridge of Island Peak. From the summit, the incredible view of the Himalayas includes Nuptse, 7879m; Lhotse, 8501m; Lhotse Middle Peak, 8419m; and the unclimbed Lhotse Shar, 8383m. To the east, the perfect pyramid of Makalu, 8475m and the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar Glacier, and to the south, Baruntse and alluring Ama Dablam.

Best time to climb island peak;
The best season for climbing Island Peak in Nepal is from March to May (Spring) and September to November (Autumn). However, the winter is also a great time to climb if you are well prepared for the cold weather. In the crisp and cold month of December, the views of the mountains are crystal clear, and there are fewer trekkers around. The duration of Island Peak Climbing can be lengthened or shortened according to your preference. Trailblazers Nepal will arrange every detail of your Island peak expedition accommodation, guides, food, and all the necessary climbing and camping equipment.

Island peak climbing difficulty level;
The Island Peak difficulty has been graded at the ‘2B’ level in the Alpine Grading System. Even though it is among the practice peaks recommended for beginners, it is still not a trekking peak that can be scaled without using mountaineering tools.
Climbers are required to have an adequate level of understanding of mountaineering techniques and should be adept at using various tools like ice axes, crampons, harnesses, climbing ropes, snow bars, ice screws, etc. Despite being listed among the other practice peaks in the Himalayas, Island Peak difficulty comes pretty close to the expeditions of the 8,000-meter class mountain. On this beautiful Himalayan peak, the climbers will be able to understand the true essence of a mountain expedition. Not only the climbers will come face-to-face with the alpine environment with slipper ice and snow segments but will also get the opportunity to practice mountaineering skills to overcome the technical segment on the mountain.
Although it is one of the most challenging expeditions among the practice peak, novice climbers with adequate skills will be able to easily handle the challenges thrown their way. Even though the technical segments on the mountain offer a similar level of challenges to the high mountain expedition, it is still at the 6,000-meter class. Thus, the novice climbers will have a better understanding of the difficulty they will be facing on a larger scale during the 8,000-meter class expeditions.

Permits required for Island peak climbing;
A total of three permits are required for Island Peak Climb. They are:
Nepal Mountaineering Association Permit
Sagarmatha national park entry Permit
Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit

Travel insurance for island peak climbing;
As Island Peak requires some climbing/mountaineering, Trekking insurance will not necessarily cover you. Mountaineering insurance which covers up to 6,189 meters should cover you. However, some insurers may cover Island Peak under "Trekking", which may be cheaper than Mountaineering. You will need to specifically check with the insurer that they will cover you.

Food water and accommodation during island peak climbing;
Accommodation during camping: one night at Base Camp and one night at High Camp (breakfast, lunch, dinner, tang juice, tea and coffee)
All standard meals (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner) during the trekking Accommodation in Kathmandu: Four nights on Twin share Bed and Breakfast Basis
Accommodation during Lodge / Tea House: 13 nights (twin-share rooms, beds with comfortable foam mattresses and pillows)
Accommodation during camping: one night at Base Camp and one night at High Camp (breakfast, lunch, dinner, tang juice, tea and coffee)

Island peak climbing packing list;
“There's no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing.” Alfred Wainwright
Are you planning your dream trip to the Himalayas of Nepal? If so, pack appropriately for hiking, trekking, and climbing experiences. The best trekking seasons for Island Peak Climbing are spring, March–May, and autumn (September–November). The weather is mild during these seasons, with clear skies and outstanding mountain views. However, nights can get cold at higher elevations. So, packing appropriate clothing, gear, and equipment is essential for a memorable and safe climbing experience.

Packing Strategy
A strategic way to pack for Island Peak Climbing is to divide your belongings into a daypack and a duffle bag. You will carry the daypack on your back, so keeping it as light as possible is important. Pack only the essentials you'll need daily during your hike, such as water, snacks, sunscreen, insect repellent, a first-aid kit, and toiletries. The duffle bag will be carried by your porter from the beginning to the end of your trek. This is where you'll pack your sleeping bag, clothing, hiking boots, trekking poles, and any other climbing gear you need.

Upper Body:
Warm beanie hat
Tubular Headwear (buff)
Sun Hat or Cap (cap and buff all fit under your hood)
Polarized Sunglasses with UV protection
Headlamp (Black Diamond / Petzl) with spare batteries
Sunscreen with factor 50+

Upper Body (Core body):
3 Light and trekking weight thermal tops
3 T-shirts or cool-max trekking shirts
1 Fleece Jacket or pull over (Merino, soft shell)
1 Waterproof shell jacket with hood (lightweight, breathable)
1 Down Jacket

Lower Body:
2 Thermal base layers (merino or polartec power dry)
2 Pairs trekking pants, preferably that zip on/off at the knees so they double as shorts.
1 Heavy weight hiking trousers (wind proof soft shell for warmth at higher altitude)
1 Waterproof/ Rain pants
2 Light Hiking shorts
2 Fleece Pants
4 Under wears (merino)

Hands:
1 Lightweight gloves or liner gloves
1 Pair shell gloves (Gore-Tex)
1 Waterproof outer glove
Feet:
3 Warm Trekking socks (smart wool)
3 Pairs of liner socks
2 Pairs of thick/ warm socks
2 Thick wool socks to wear at night in lodges
Trekking Boots (waterproof, ankle support with rigid sole)
Lightweight Rubber Shoes / Trainers / Trail Runner to wear at the Tea Houses

Accessories:
1 Daypack (approximately 2500 to 3000 cubic inches) 40 - 50 Liters
2 Water bottle or camel bag, 1-liter (one with an insulated cover is recommended)
Large duffle bag (and a lock as the porters will carry this)
A pair of adjustable Trekking Pole
Camera with extra battery
Sleeping bag (- 15 C depending upon trips)
Sleeping Bag liner
Ear Plugs
Portable Solar Charger
Smart Trekking Watch

Personal First Aid Kit:
Please do note that our trekking guides will be too carrying the first aid kit with them especially for the guests and the entire team as a whole. Still, we suggest the following items to be carried with you while trekking in the Himalaya of Nepal.
Personal Medication
Diarrhea Stopper (e.g. Imodium)
Paracetamol Tablets
Small Swiss Army knife (which has knife, scissors and tweezers)
Diamox for altitude (consult your doctor about this)
Water Purification tablets or drops
Blister kit / Zinc Tape
Hand Sanitizer
Dressing Gauze
Antibiotic Cream